I · The Maker/II · The Dial/III · The Case/IV · The Record/V · Acquisition
Breguet Marine 3400SA, Steel and Gold, Guilloché Dial, c.1994, front view
Breguet · Switzerland

The First Marine

Marine Automatique, Ref. 3400SA · steel and 18ct gold, c.1994 to 1995
€7.250
The Exhibition · Wristwatch
Marine Automatique
Reference 3400SA · steel and 18ct yellow gold · Switzerland, c.1994 to 1995

The first Breguet Marine, ref. 3400SA, in steel with an 18ct gold bezel and fluted gold caseband, its hand-guilloché dial numbered 3714 to match the case. Complete on its original two-tone Marine bracelet, with its box and certificate.

3400SA
Reference
35.5mm
Case
549
Calibre
1994
Circa
Room I · The Maker
Breguet, Quai de l'Horloge, Paris, since 1775.
Abraham-Louis Breguet opened his workshop on the Quai de l'Horloge in Paris in 1775, and in 1815 Louis XVIII appointed him Horloger de la Marine, supplier of chronometers to the French fleet. The modern house took that title as the name for its Marine collection in 1990. Its automatic calibres of the period were built on Jaeger-LeCoultre bases, as is the calibre 549 in this watch.
Room II · The Dial
The dial is the other half of it.

Breguet kept the hand engine-turning of its dress watches for the Marine, and the dial says so at six: Swiss Guilloché Main. The turned centre sits inside a plain silvered chapter ring with black Roman numerals, a dotted minute track and a beaded gold edge, and the date window takes the place of the VI. Blued Breguet pomme hands and a blued centre seconds, and at the top of the dial the signature with the watch's own number, 3714. It is clean, with the print sharp and the turning crisp.

Reading the dial · tap a number
The Dial
  1. 1
    The numbered signature
    At the top of the dial the signature with the watch's own number, 3714, matching the case.
  2. 2
    Blued pomme hands
    Blued Breguet pomme hands and a blued centre seconds.
  3. 3
    Hand-turned centre
    The turned centre sits inside a plain silvered chapter ring with black Roman numerals, a dotted minute track and a beaded gold edge.
  4. 4
    Date in place of VI
    The date window takes the place of the VI; the quickset date changes cleanly and sits centred in the window.
  5. 5
    Swiss Guilloché Main
    Breguet kept the hand engine-turning of its dress watches for the Marine, and the dial says so at six.
Room III · The Case
The fluted gold caseband and steel crown guards
The fluted gold caseband and steel crown guards
The folding clasp under its gold cover signed Breguet
The folding clasp under its gold cover signed Breguet
Classical details in a sporting case.

The 3400 is the original Breguet Marine: a 35.5mm automatic with date and centre seconds that put the house's classical details into a sporting case. It was introduced with the collection in 1990 and made until the line was redrawn in 2005. This is the steel and gold version, the 3400SA, from the first half of that run.

The case is what sets it apart from Breguet's dress watches. A pair of steel guards stands out from the right flank to shield the crown, and the band of the case is fluted along its full circumference, the coin-edge finish Breguet also gives its Classique cases. Here the fluted band and the stepped bezel above it are 18ct yellow gold, set against a steel case body, steel guards and a steel back, and the fluting carries on across the steel at each end of the case where the bracelet is fitted. The steel crown between the guards is capped with the Breguet rosette.

It is on the original Breguet Marine bracelet in the same two metals: rows of brushed steel links joined by polished gold, gold edge links down each side, and a folding clasp closed by a gold cover signed Breguet. The gold of the bezel and caseband is picked up link by link along its length.

Measured
35.5 mmDiameter 43 mmLug to lug
cm
Wrap a strip of paper around your wrist, mark where it meets, and measure it.
Room IV · The Record
The clasp, stamped BREGUET and SWISS MADE STAINLESS STEEL
The Estate Collection · The Record
Reference
3400SA
Case no.
3714E
Sold new
January 1995
Dial, case and certificate, numbered to each other.

The dial is signed Breguet with the watch's individual number, 3714, and the caseback carries the same number with its series letter, 3714E, together with AUTOMATIQUE, STAINLESS STEEL and HORLOGER DE LA MARINE. The watch keeps its Breguet certificate of origin and guarantee, filled in by hand with the same number, 3714E, and stamped and dated by the Vienna retailer who sold it new in January 1995. It comes in its green Breguet box, with Horloger de la Marine printed inside the lid.

The gold clasp cover is signed Breguet and the clasp is stamped inside. The back also carries a personal inscription in script, added by an earlier owner.

Above: The clasp, stamped BREGUET and SWISS MADE STAINLESS STEEL
Breguet Marine, ref. 3400SA, steel and 18ct yellow gold, c.1994 to 1995
Case
Very good
Stainless steel with 18ct yellow gold bezel and fluted caseband. Light surface wear consistent with use, no dents. Light scratches to the steel back, which carries a personal inscription in script.
Dial
Excellent
Hand-guilloché silvered dial, clean, print crisp, no visible marks or retouching. Blued steel hands.
Movement
Very good
Automatic calibre 549. Winds, runs and sets correctly; the quickset date changes cleanly and sits centred in the window.
Crystal
Excellent
Sapphire, clear.
Crown
Excellent
Steel with Breguet rosette, between the crown guards. Winds and sets cleanly.
Bracelet
Very good
Original two-tone Breguet Marine bracelet, 13 links including the clasp. Light scuffs to the flat steel links beside the clasp; the clasp closes firmly.
Maker
Breguet
Model
Marine Automatique
Reference
3400SA
Serial
3714E (case), 3714 (dial)
Case material
Stainless steel with 18ct yellow gold bezel and fluted caseband
Diameter
35.5mm
Lug to lug
43mm
Movement
Automatic, calibre 549, 36 jewels
Dial
Silvered, hand guilloché, black Roman numerals
Complications
Date (quickset), centre seconds
Bracelet
Original Breguet two-tone steel and 18ct gold, folding clasp, 13 links
Year
Circa 1994-1995
Country
Switzerland
Box / papers
Original Breguet box (Horloger de la Marine); Breguet certificate of origin and guarantee, completed with the watch number and dated by the retailer, January 1995
Warranty
12 months, mechanical, through Vintage Times Amsterdam from date of delivery
The Estate Collection
Room V · Acquisition
The Estate Collection · Warranty
Warranty
12 months
Cover
Mechanical
From
Delivery

12-month mechanical warranty through Vintage Times Amsterdam from date of delivery.

€7.250
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Breguet
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Marine 3400SA in Steel and Gold
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