I · The Maker/II · The Dial/III · The Case/IV · The Record/V · Acquisition
Leroy & Fils · Paris

The Pulsometer Chronograph

Valjoux 13-ligne VZ · 18ct gold, 32.2mm, c.1935
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The Exhibition · Wristwatch
Single-Button Pulsometer Chronograph
Valjoux 13-ligne VZ · 18ct gold · Paris, c.1935

A Leroy & Fils single-button chronograph in French 18ct gold, the chronograph worked entirely through the crown, with a pulsometer dial graduated for thirty pulsations.

VZ
Calibre
32.2mm
Case
18ct
Gold
1935
Circa
Room I · The Maker
Leroy & Fils, 35 avenue de l'Opéra, Paris.
Leroy & Fils was one of the Paris houses of the Palais-Royal, trading from the galerie de Valois from 1813 and holding the royal warrant under Louis-Philippe from 1835. In 1883 it moved to 35 avenue de l'Opéra, the new grand boulevard between the Louvre and the Opéra Garnier, and kept the address for the rest of its life, into the 1960s. Like the other Paris houses it chose Swiss ebauches of the first rank and cased them in French gold under its own name, and the stamped caseback and signed dial here are that practice in full.

This chronograph is the house at its most practical: a Valjoux column-wheel calibre, a French gold case, and a dial laid out for a doctor's hand, sold across the avenue de l'Opéra counter in the mid 1930s.
Room II · The Dial
Aged to an even champagne tone.

The dial has aged to an even champagne tone with fine foxing across the surface, heavier below the centre. The Breguet-style Arabic numerals are large and black, the outer track is divided to fifths of a second with figures at every five, and the words GRADUE POUR 30 PULSATIONS run around the top edge in capitals. The two registers, thirty minutes at three and running seconds at nine, are snailed in concentric rings that catch the light differently from the flat ground around them. Leroy & Fils sits under twelve, Paris above six. Blued steel leaf hands for the time, a needle-thin blued hand for the chronograph, blued hands in the registers.

Reading the dial · tap a number
The Dial
  1. 1
    The signature
    LEROY & FILS printed under the twelve, PARIS above the six.
  2. 2
    Pulsometer scale
    Runs down the right of the dial, 200 at the top to 40 at the bottom; the chronograph hand reads the pulse against it after thirty beats.
  3. 3
    Thirty-minute register
    At three, snailed in concentric rings, with a blued hand.
  4. 4
    Running seconds
    At nine, snailed to match the register opposite.
GRADUÉ POUR 30 PULSATIONS
Graduated for thirty pulsations

The chronograph is controlled from the crown alone: a small flat button set in its centre starts, stops and returns the hand with successive presses, so the caseband carries nothing but the crown. This is the first generation of the wrist chronograph, the single-button pocket chronograph brought down to the wrist, and the pulsometer scale makes it the physician's version. Start on a heartbeat, stop on the thirtieth, and the long blued chronograph hand points to the pulse rate on the scale that runs down the right of the dial, 200 at the top to 40 at the bottom.

Room III · The Case
The tall stepped bezel and short hooked lugs, in profile
The tall stepped bezel and short hooked lugs, in profile
The fluted crown, with the French eagle's head for 18ct gold struck on the band beside it
The fluted crown, with the French eagle's head for 18ct gold struck on the band beside it
A tall stepped bezel on a plain round band.

The watch is small by later standards, 32.2mm across and 38.7mm lug to lug, and the case makes the most of it: a plain round band, a tall raised bezel stepped back from a second ring beneath it, and short hooked lugs that turn down to the strap. Seen from the side the bezel stands well proud of the band and the domed crystal rises again above that, so the dial sits deep in a frame of gold. The back is flat and plain, stamped with the shop's name and address and engraved with an early owner's monogram in modernist capitals, i.u.

Measured
32.2 mmDiameter 38.7 mmLug to lug
cm
Wrap a strip of paper around your wrist, mark where it meets, and measure it.
Room IV · The Record
The caseback, stamped Leroy & Fils, 35 Av. Opéra, with the monogram i.u
The Estate Collection · The Record
Reference
857
Case
156548
Made
c.1935
Signed on the dial and stamped on the back, in a French 18ct case numbered 156548.

The dial is signed Leroy & Fils, Paris, and the caseback is stamped Leroy & Fils, 35 Av. Opéra, with the case number 156548. Two other avenue de l'Opéra wrist chronographs are recorded with the numbers 156873 and 158575, catalogued c.1935 and 1940s, which places this case around 1935. The band beside the crown and the inside of the back each carry the French eagle's head for 18ct gold, and the back carries the casemaker's lozenge. The movement is the Valjoux 13-ligne VZ, identified against documented examples cased by Audemars Piguet in 1933 and 1939.

Beneath the dial is the Valjoux 13-ligne VZ, the column-wheel single-button calibre of the 1930s, the same ebauche Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe built their crown-button chronographs on in these years. Here it is finished in nickel with Geneva stripes across the bridges, polished steel chronograph levers and a cut bimetallic compensation balance under a narrow cock. The reference, 857, is stamped into the plate beside the balance. It runs well and the chronograph does what it should from the crown.

Above: The caseback, stamped Leroy & Fils, 35 Av. Opéra, with the monogram i.u
Leroy & Fils single-button pulsometer chronograph, Valjoux VZ, 18ct gold, c.1935
Case
Very good
Stepped round 18ct gold case, unpolished, with crisp edges to the lugs and bezel. Light surface scratching to the caseback and some reddish discolouration on the bezel step at 12 and 6.
Dial
Very good
Aged to an even champagne tone with fine foxing across the surface, heavier below the centre. Printing and signatures crisp.
Movement
Very good
Valjoux 13-ligne VZ column-wheel chronograph, nickel finish with Geneva stripes, clean and bright. Winds, sets and runs well; the chronograph starts, stops and resets correctly from the crown button.
Crystal
Good
Domed, with a few small nicks to the edge of the dome.
Crown
Excellent
Fluted crown with the chronograph button set in its centre; winds smoothly and the button operates cleanly.
Strap
Later brown leather strap with a gold-coloured pin buckle, not original.
Box and papers
None supplied with the watch.
Maker
Leroy & Fils, 35 avenue de l'Opéra, Paris
Model
Single-button pulsometer chronograph
Reference
857
Case number
156548
Date
C.1935
Case material
18ct yellow gold, French eagle's head marks
Case diameter
32.2mm
Lug to lug
38.7mm
Movement
Valjoux 13-ligne VZ, manual wind, column-wheel chronograph operated by a button in the crown
Jewels
17
Dial
Champagne, printed Breguet-style Arabic numerals, pulsometer scale graduated for 30 pulsations
Complications
Chronograph, 30-minute register, subsidiary seconds, pulsometer
Hands
Blued steel
Country
France (case and retailer), Switzerland (movement)
Warranty
12 months, mechanical, through Vintage Times Amsterdam from date of delivery
The Estate Collection
Room V · Acquisition
The Estate Collection · Warranty
Warranty
12 months
Cover
Mechanical
From
Delivery

12-month mechanical warranty through Vintage Times Amsterdam from date of delivery.

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Crown-Button Pulsometer Chronograph in 18ct Gold
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