I · The Maker/II · The Object/III · The Dial/IV · The Record/V · Acquisition
Bailey Banks & Biddle 18ct Gold Pocket Watch, Tombstone, c.1925, front view
Touchon Extra · Geneva

Six-Sided 'Tombstone'

Geneva & New York, c.1925, 44.33 mm
€9.000
Room I · The Maker
Touchon & Cie of Geneva, founded in 1901, built and finished movements for the leading houses of the trade, among them Tiffany, Cartier and Vacheron & Constantin, and marked its best grade Extra. From 1921 the firm worked with Wittnauer and Agassiz to reach the American market, which is how a Geneva movement of this quality came to be cased for Wittnauer and sold through an American jeweller. The name on the dial, Bailey, Banks & Biddle of Philadelphia, belongs to one of the oldest jewellers in America, trading since 1832 and long accustomed to selling Swiss work of this grade under its own signature.
The shape is the point
Bailey Banks & Biddle 18ct Gold Pocket Watch, Tombstone, c.1925, detail view 15
Touchon Extra, nineteen jewels and eight adjustments
Bailey Banks & Biddle 18ct Gold Pocket Watch, Tombstone, c.1925, detail view 8
Applied gold numerals, tall and narrow
The Object
A six-sided Art Deco dress watch in solid 18ct gold, built at the top of the American trade: the case by Wittnauer, the dial signed by Bailey, Banks & Biddle of Philadelphia, and the movement by Touchon of Geneva, finished to the firm's highest grade.
By the early 1920s the pocket watch had long settled into its shape. Art Deco geometry was running through everything on the jeweller's counter, wristwatches, cigarette cases, vanity cases, and the dress pocket watch with them, cut as octagons, cushions and rarer outlines like this one. The case is cut with six straight sides, the outline the period trade called a tombstone, taller than it is wide, with the gold bow passing straight through the top edge rather than hanging from a round pendant. There is no ornament beyond the geometry itself: a plain polished bezel, flat polished gold, and edges that still meet crisply a century on. On this watch the shape is the point, and everything else is built to serve it.
The dial holds the same discipline. It is silvered with a fine grained finish that shifts in raking light, and the numerals are applied gold Arabics in the tall, narrow style of the decade, drawn out to follow the case rather than fight it. A railroad minute track runs inside them and a sub-seconds register sits at six. Nothing on the front is printed where it could be built: the numerals stand proud of the silver in solid gold, and the hands are gold too, each pierced with an open lozenge near the tip. The crown is fluted gold, small and correct for a dress watch.
The back is a plain polished field with a single engraving at its centre: three interlaced letters in an angular Art Deco hand, cut in the same straight-edged style as the case, so the initials read as part of the design rather than an afterthought. They have not been identified.
The flat surfaces catch light differently from a round case, in planes rather than a single curve.
The marks, the movement and the condition are set out in the drawers below.
Room III · The Dial
Reading the dial · tap a number
The Dial
  1. 1
    Applied gold Arabics
    Applied gold Arabics in the tall, narrow style of the decade, standing proud of the silver and drawn out to follow the case.
  2. 2
    Railroad minute track
    A geometric railroad minute track runs inside the numerals.
  3. 3
    Sub-seconds at six
    A sub-seconds register at six.
  4. 4
    Pierced gold hands
    Gold hands, each pierced with an open lozenge near the tip.
  5. 5
    Grained silver
    Silvered with a fine grained finish that shifts in raking light; honest age patina and a slight surface mark beside the 1, no chips or cracks.
  6. 6
    Six-sided tombstone
    Six straight sides in solid 18ct gold; a plain polished bezel and edges that still meet crisply a century on.
  7. 7
    Bow and fluted crown
    The gold bow passes straight through the top edge; the crown is fluted gold, small and correct for a dress watch.
Beneath the case
Open each drawer to look closer
18K in cartouche, Wittnauer shield, Helvetia head
Mark 1
18K in cartouche, Wittnauer shield, Helvetia head
The gold standard mark, 18K struck in a rectangular cartouche, confirming the solid 18-carat case, with the shield mark of Wittnauer & Co., the firm that cased the Geneva movement for the American trade, and the head of Helvetia, the Swiss federal hallmark for 18ct gold, struck when the case was assayed in Switzerland.
18ct gold
casemaker
assay
Movement
  1. A
    Touchon Extra
    Signed Touchon & Co., Swiss, and marked Extra, the firm's highest grade.
  2. B
    19 jewels, 8 adjustments
    Nineteen jewels and eight adjustments, with a lever escapement.
  3. C
    Cut bimetallic balance
    A cut bimetallic compensation balance with a blued overcoil hairspring.
  4. D
    Matching serial 41755
    Serial 41755, matching the case: movement and case left the workshop together.
Case
Very good
Solid 18ct gold with minimal age wear; the polished back cover near excellent, the monogram engraving crisp.
Dial
Good
Silvered surface with honest, even age patina; a faint surface mark beside the numeral 1; no chips or cracks, all applied numerals and both hands intact.
Movement
Excellent
Clean and well preserved with fine decorative finishing, all jewels intact; winds, sets and runs correctly.
Crystal
Excellent
Present and intact, no cracks.
Crown
Excellent
Fluted gold, present and functional.
44.33
This watch
25.75
€2 coin
A €2 coin is 25.75 mm. This case is more than two and a half times its area.
Room IV · The Record
One serial, three firms.
The movement is signed Touchon & Co, Swiss, with nineteen jewels, eight adjustments and the grade Extra, the highest Touchon marked. The case is stamped 18K in a cartouche with the shield mark of Wittnauer & Co., the Swiss Helvetia head for 18ct gold and the serial 41755, and the same number appears on the movement: case and movement left the workshop together. The dial is signed Bailey, Banks & Biddle Co. The jewels and adjustments are engraved in words and then figures, the form American import law required from late 1922, which places the watch in the mid 1920s.
Maker (movement)
Touchon & Cie, Geneva
Retailer (dial)
Bailey, Banks & Biddle Co., Philadelphia
Case
Wittnauer & Co., Switzerland
Model
Six-sided 'tombstone' open face
Case material
Solid 18ct gold
Diameter
44.33 x 30.95 mm
Movement
Manual wind, lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued overcoil
Jewels
19
Adjustments
8, Extra grade
Complications
Sub-seconds
Dial
Silvered, grained finish, applied gold Arabic numerals
Country
Switzerland
Hallmarks
18K in cartouche; Wittnauer shield mark; Swiss Helvetia head (18ct gold)
Serial
41755 (movement and case, matching)
Box / papers
None
Estimated date
C.1925
The Estate Collection
In the metalSilvered dial, applied gold Arabics
Room V · Acquisition
€9.000
We’d love to discuss our passion for this piece with you.
Bailey Banks & Biddle Co.
€9.000
Enquiry
Six-Sided 'Tombstone'
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