I · The Maker/II · The Object/III · The Record/IV · Acquisition
Charles Oudin Gold Pocket Watch, Chronograph with Box, c.1910, detail view 6
Charles Oudin · Paris

Horloger de la Marine Chronograph

Paris, c.1910 · 46.7 mm
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Room I · The Maker
Charles Oudin trained under Abraham-Louis Breguet, who from 1797 allowed him to sign his watches "élève de Breguet". The same year he married Anne Antoinette Virginie Le Roy, sister of Basile-Charles Le Roy, whose house was already established under the arcades of the Palais-Royal. Oudin opened there in 1801, made an à tact repeater for Empress Josephine in 1805 and took the title of watchmaker to the French Navy. The firm passed to Amédée Charpentier in the 1850s and in 1899 moved to 17 avenue de l'Opéra, where this watch was sold.
Charles Oudin Gold Pocket Watch, Chronograph with Box, c.1910, detail view 3
Charles Oudin Gold Pocket Watch, Chronograph with Box, c.1910, detail view 4
The Object
A Charles Oudin chronograph in 18ct gold from the house's years on the avenue de l'Opéra, still with the fitted Oudin box it was sold in. The lid of the box and the back of the case carry the same initials, J.B.
This chronograph was sold in Paris around 1910, when Charles Oudin was trading from 17 avenue de l'Opéra, and it has kept the box it left the shop in. The fitted case is covered in blue leather with a gilt-tooled edge, and the silk inside the lid is printed Charles Oudin, Horloger de la Marine, 17. Avenue de l'Opéra, Paris. On the lid, worn almost flat, are the stamped initials J.B. The same two letters are worked in dark blue enamel at the centre of the caseback, interlaced inside a ring. Box and watch were made up for one owner, and they are still together.
The case is 18ct gold, open face and 46.7mm across, a slim dress size for a chronograph. It is plainly finished, with a polished bezel and back, a round bow and a fluted crown, and the chronograph is controlled from a button in the crown, so nothing breaks the line of the band.
The dial has an even champagne tone. Its black Breguet numerals keep the style of the house's founder, who learnt his trade with Breguet, and "Ch. Oudin à Paris" runs in script across the centre, split either side of the hands. The 30-minute register sits at twelve and the small seconds at six, inside an outer track to sixty for the chronograph. The hour and minute hands are blued Breguet hands with open moon tips, and the centre chronograph hand is blued to match, finished with a ring counterweight. The whole dial is laid out to be read at a glance: large numerals, two clean registers and nothing else.
Inside the back, the gold cuvette is engraved with the house's number, name, title and address, set out as they appear inside the box. Beneath it, the chronograph works are laid across the back of the movement in polished steel, with jewelled wheels and long, finely shaped levers. Oudin cased the movement in Swiss gold and signed the watch on the dial, the cuvette and the box, the three places the owner would see.
It is in excellent order. The watch runs, and the chronograph starts, stops and resets as it should.
The marks, the movement and the condition are set out in the drawers below, and the signatures and box in The Record.
Beneath the case
Open each drawer to look closer
18K 0,750 and Helvetia head
Mark 1
18K 0,750 and Helvetia head
The Swiss fineness and assay marks for 18ct gold, struck inside the back.
18ct gold
Switzerland
JN
Mark 2
JN
The case maker's mark, struck inside the back above the case number 594xx.
Case maker
Case 594xx
The cuvette
Mark 3
The cuvette
Engraved No. 376xx, Ch. Oudin, Horloger de la Marine, 17. Avenue de l'Opéra, Paris.
Charles Oudin
Paris
Movement
  1. A
    Chronograph works
    Laid across the back of the movement in polished steel, with jewelled wheels.
  2. B
    Button in the crown
    Starts the chronograph hand, stops it and returns it to zero.
  3. C
    Compensation balance
    A screwed compensation balance, regulated by an index marked A and R.
  4. D
    30-minute register
    Counts the chronograph's minutes at twelve, beside the small seconds at six.
Case
Excellent
18ct gold with crisp marks; the back and cuvette close well. Light handling marks to the rim of the back.
Dial
Excellent
Even champagne tone; numerals, signature and registers clean, with a few faint specks near the outer track.
Movement
Excellent
Runs, winds and sets correctly. The chronograph starts, stops and resets.
Crystal
Excellent
Clear.
Crown
Excellent
Fluted gold crown; winds and sets smoothly and operates the chronograph.
46.7
This watch
25.75
€2 coin
A €2 coin is 25.75 mm. This case is more than two and a half times its area.
Room III · The Record
The Record
Supplied with the watch. Click to enlarge.
Signed, numbered and boxed by Charles Oudin, Horloger de la Marine
The cuvette is engraved No. 376xx, Ch. Oudin, Horloger de la Marine, 17. Avenue de l'Opéra, Paris, the address the firm took in 1899, and the dial is signed Ch. Oudin à Paris. The watch comes in its original Oudin fitted box, the silk printed with the same title and address. The lid is stamped J.B., the initials enamelled on the back of the case.
Maker
Charles Oudin, Paris
Model
Horloger de la Marine chronograph
Date
C.1910
Case
18ct yellow gold, open face, hinged back and gold cuvette
Diameter
46.7mm
Dial
Champagne, black Breguet numerals, signed Ch. Oudin à Paris
Hands
Blued steel Breguet hands, blued chronograph hand
Movement
Swiss lever chronograph, keyless, nickel
Complications
Chronograph with 30-minute register, small seconds
Hallmarks
18K 0,750, Swiss Helvetia head, case maker JN
Number
376xx
Origin
Swiss movement and case, retailed in Paris
Box
Original Charles Oudin fitted box
The Estate Collection
In the metalThe watch in detail
Room IV · Acquisition
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