I · The Maker/II · The Object/III · The Dial/IV · The Archive/V · Acquisition
Breguet No. 1852 Gold Enamel Pendant Watch, 1914, front view
Breguet · Paris

No. 1852, Confirmed by Breguet's Archive Records

Paris, 1914, 26.7 mm
Sold
Room I · The Maker
Breguet is the most respected name in horology. After Abraham-Louis Breguet, the house passed in 1870 to Edward Brown, whose family carried Maison Breguet for a century while holding to the founder's standards. This pendant watch belongs to that Brown era, and unusually its history can be dated to the day.
Translucent royal-blue enamel, with a pinwheel of rose-cut diamonds at its centre
Breguet No. 1852 Gold Enamel Pendant Watch, 1914, detail view 4
Royal-blue enamel over engine-turning, held in a white enamel border
Breguet No. 1852 Gold Enamel Pendant Watch, 1914, detail view 11
The original sautoir of blue enamel batons and seed pearls
The Object
A genuine Breguet pendant watch of 1914, its 18ct gold case worked in royal-blue guilloche enamel and centred with a rose-cut diamond rosette. Confirmed by Breguet's Patrimony department from its own archive records, with documented Paris provenance and its original matching enamel-and-pearl chain.
A pendant watch of 26.7mm, small enough to sit in the hollow of a palm, and finished the way only a great Paris house finishes small things. The back is translucent royal-blue enamel over engine-turning, held inside a white enamel border, and at its centre sits a pinwheel rosette of rose-cut diamonds. The bezel repeats the blue and white around a gilt engine-turned dial with Breguet Arabic numerals and blued steel Breguet hands, the open-ring pattern the house itself invented. Everything about it was made to be worn against dark fabric on a long chain, and the chain is still here: the original sautoir of slender blue enamel batons spaced with seed pearls, closed by a diamond-set clasp. Chains of this kind are nearly always lost or separated over a century; a matching original changes what the piece is.
It is a Breguet of the Brown era, made in Paris and sold from the maison's salon at 2 rue Édouard VII in the spring of 1914. The house's registers record the sale, and the watch's return for service nine years later; the entry, confirmed in writing by Breguet, is set out in The Archive below. What the object adds to the paperwork is condition: the enamel still bright with only a few tiny chips, the rosette secure though two of its smaller stones are gone, the original crystal in place, the chain showing only light wear to a few links.
For all its jewellery, it is a proper watch. The keyless bar movement winds from the crown, sets by drawing it out, and runs correctly: a full lever-escapement mechanism folded into a case not much bigger than a coat button.
Pieces like this belong to a particular Paris, the last spring before the First World War, when a watch could be commissioned as a jewel and entered in a ledger by hand. This one has kept its enamel, its chain and its paper trail together for more than a century.
The marks, the movement and the condition are set out piece by piece in the drawers below; the register entry is set out in The Archive.
Room III · The Dial
Reading the dial · tap a number
The Dial
  1. 1
    Breguet No. 1852
    Signed Breguet with the watch number 1852, the number recorded against this watch in the maison's own registers.
  2. 2
    Blued spade hands
    Blued steel spade hands.
  3. 3
    Arabic numerals
    Arabic hour numerals around a fine minute track.
  4. 4
    Engine-turned centre
    A gilt dial with an engine-turned centre, lightly and evenly aged and fully legible.
  5. 5
    Blue and white bezel
    The bezel repeats the blue and white enamel of the back around the dial.
Beneath the case
Open each drawer to look closer
French horse-head, 18ct
Mark 1
French horse-head, 18ct
The tête-de-cheval assay mark for 18-carat gold, in use 1838 to 1919, struck inside the back.
18ct gold
1838-1919
The lozenge maker's punch
Mark 2
The lozenge maker's punch
A lozenge-shaped maker's mark alongside the assay, the case-maker's own guarantee.
maker's punch
Gold case No. 11768
Mark 3
Gold case No. 11768
The case number recorded in Breguet's register against this watch, struck inside the back.
case no. 11768
Signed Breguet, No. 1852
Mark 4
Signed Breguet, No. 1852
The watch number 1852, matching the archive entry exactly and carrying the Breguet signature.
No. 1852
Breguet signature
Movement
  1. A
    Keyless bar calibre
    A jewelled keyless bar movement with a lever escapement, wound and set by the crown with no key needed.
  2. B
    Winds, sets and runs
    It winds smoothly, sets cleanly and runs as it should, which cannot be taken for granted at this age.
Case
Very good
18ct gold with royal-blue guilloché and white enamel, bright with only a few very small enamel chips; the diamond-set rosette is secure, two of its smaller rose-cut diamonds are missing, the centre stone is present.
Dial
Excellent
Gilt with an engine-turned centre, light even ageing, hour numerals fully legible, no chips or losses.
Movement
Excellent
Gilt keyless bar movement, clean and running well; winds, sets and runs correctly.
Crystal
Excellent
Original and fully intact.
Crown
Excellent
Gold crown and trefoil bow, winds and sets smoothly.
Chain
The matching blue enamel and seed-pearl sautoir with diamond-set clasp, in good order with light wear to a few enamel links.
26.7
This watch
25.75
€2 coin
A €2 coin is 25.75 mm. This case is more than two and a half times its area.
Room IV · The Archive
Recorded in Breguet's own registers
Emmanuel Breguet, Head of Patrimony, confirmed this watch from the maison's historic sales books: No. 1852, gold case No. 11768, blue enamelled back with a jewelled centre of roses, sold on 10 April 1914 to C. Vazeilles and returned for service in 1923. An official certificate of authenticity signed by the Breguet curator can be obtained.
Maker
Breguet (Brown-era Maison Breguet), genuine, archive-confirmed
Model
Breguet No. 1852; gold case No. 11768
Case
18ct gold (royal-blue guilloché and white enamel)
Diameter
26.7 mm
Case Type
Open face, pendant
Movement
Keyless bar calibre, jewelled, lever escapement; stem-wind, stem-set
Hallmarks
French horse-head (tete de cheval) 18ct assay, 1838-1919; lozenge maker's punch
Dial
Gilt, engine-turned centre, Breguet Arabic numerals, blued Breguet open-ring hands; signed Breguet No 1852
Diamonds
Rose-cut diamond rosette to the reverse (two smaller stones missing); rose-cut diamond-set clasp
Complications
None
Date
1914 (archive-confirmed sale date)
Country
France (Paris)
Provenance
Sold 10 April 1914 to C. Vazeilles; serviced by Breguet 1923 for Mrs Candas, Paris
Accessories
Original matching blue enamel and seed-pearl sautoir; Breguet certificate of authenticity available to the owner from the Patrimony Department
The Estate Collection
In the metalThe diamond-set clasp
Room V · Acquisition
Sold
We’d love to discuss our passion for this piece with you.
Breguet
Sold
Enquiry
Breguet No. 1852, 1914
×
Prefer email? Write to info@estatecollection.nl.