I · The Maker/II · The Object/III · Provenance/IV · Acquisition
Patek Philippe · Genève

Retailed by Goldsmiths & Silversmiths, Crested

London, c.1914, 46.94 mm
€7.000
Room I · The Maker
Patek Philippe, founded in Geneva in 1839, built its reputation on precision and finish rather than volume. A Patek movement of this period was among the finest money could buy, and the hand finishing under the dust cover reflects it. This example was cased and retailed in London by the Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company of Regent Street, and engraved for its first owner with a full family coat of arms.
The Object
A genuine Patek Philippe pocket watch of around 1914, retailed by the Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company of Regent Street, its case back cut with the arms of the family who first ordered it. It winds, sets and runs exactly as it should.
This watch had two birthplaces. The movement was made in Geneva by Patek Philippe around 1914, finished to the standard that made the name; the case that received it was made in London, by the Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company of 112 Regent Street, who sold the finished watch across their counter. Geneva precision in London gold was how the best English customers bought their Pateks, and this piece still carries both halves of that partnership in its metal.
Its first owner then made it his: the back is engraved with the full arms of his family, helmets, shield and quarterings complete, with an entwined cypher on the outer case. Arms of this kind were not decoration; they were identity, cut for a family entitled to bear them, and they give the watch a first chapter most plain examples lost long ago.
The silvered dial is laid out in the restrained Geneva dress style of the era: painted black Breguet numerals, the slanted, flourished figures the great houses used on their formal watches, blued steel Breguet hands with the open ring near the tip, and a printed railway minute track. The surface has aged to a warm, gently mottled tone, the soft marks of a century of ownership rather than any damage or restoration. It is unsigned, which is correct for a Patek supplied through a retailer, who often left the dial plain rather than add a name.
At 46.9mm it is a full-size gentleman's open-face watch, in 18ct white gold, supplied on its chain. The keyless lever movement winds smoothly, sets cleanly and runs as it should, with the hand-finishing visible under the dust cover doing quiet justice to the signature on the plate.
The marks, the movement and the condition are set out piece by piece in the drawers below; the London casing, the coat of arms and the archive route are set out in Provenance.
Beneath the case
Open each drawer to look closer
Caseback marks
  1. 1
    The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths mark
    Struck inside the case, the G and S Co Ltd punch of the Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company of Regent Street, the London house that cased and retailed this Geneva movement.
    G & S Co Ltd
    Regent Street
  2. 2
    Case no. 1196
    The case and inner cuvette both carry the number 1196, the Goldsmiths & Silversmiths casing number that ties the two halves of the case together.
    case no. 1196
    matched cuvette
  3. 3
    Movement no. 173651
    The full Patek Philippe & Cie, Geneve signature and serial on the movement, the number that dates manufacture to about 1914 and that an archive extract can confirm.
    serial 173651
    Patek signature
Movement
  1. A
    Keyless lever, no. 173651
    A keyless lever movement of the quality the Patek name implies, winding smoothly, setting cleanly and running as it should, which cannot be taken for granted at this age.
  2. B
    Ruby jewels in gold chatons
    The jewels are set in gold chatons rather than pressed into the plate, a mark of the finest grade of Geneva work of the period.
  3. C
    Geneva striping
    The bridges are finished with Côtes de Genève, the hand-applied striping visible beneath the dust cover.
  4. D
    Micrometer regulator
    A micrometer regulator marked Avance and Retard for fine adjustment of the rate.
Overall
Excellent
A genuine, running golden-age Patek in its original retailer's case, with a full armorial engraving.
Case
Excellent
18ct white gold by Goldsmiths & Silversmiths; light surface hairlines consistent with age, no dents, engraving crisp, opens and closes correctly; case and cuvette numbered 1196.
Dial
Excellent
Silvered with Arabic numerals and blued steel hands, even warm patina throughout, no chips, losses or hairlines, fully legible.
Movement
Excellent
Patek Philippe & Cie, Geneve, no. 173651; clean and running well, ruby jewels in gold chatons, Geneva striping, micrometer regulator.
Crystal
Excellent
Clear, no cracks or chips.
Crown
Excellent
Original and secure.
46.94
This watch
25.75
€2 coin
A €2 coin is 25.75 mm. This case is more than two and a half times its area.
Room III · Provenance
A Geneva Patek, cased in London and borne by a family
The movement carries the full Patek Philippe & Cie, Geneve signature and serial 173651, placing manufacture around 1914. The case and inner cuvette were supplied by the Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company of Regent Street, both numbered 1196 and marked G and S Co Ltd. The caseback bears a full armorial achievement, three crested helmets above a quartered shield, commissioned by the original owner. A Patek Extract from the Archives can be obtained to confirm the calibre and sale date from the manufacturer's records.
Maker
Patek Philippe & Cie, Geneve
Model
18ct white gold open-face pocket watch
Movement No.
173651
Date
C.1914
Retailer
Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co., 112 Regent Street, London (case and cuvette No. 1196)
Case
Open-face, 18ct white gold
Diameter
46.94mm
Movement
Keyless lever, manual wind, ruby jewels in gold chatons, Geneva striping, micrometer regulator
Dial
Silvered, painted Breguet numerals, blued steel Breguet hands, railway minute track, time-only
Complications
None
Country
Switzerland (cased in England)
Inscriptions
Armorial coat of arms and entwined cypher
Serial
173651
Accompanied by
Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives (on order)
The Estate Collection
In the metalThe watch in detail
Room IV · Acquisition
€7.000
We’d love to discuss our passion for this piece with you.
Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève
€7.000
Enquiry
Crested Goldsmiths Patek, c.1914
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