I · The Commission/II · The Weave/III · The Collector's Piece/IV · Acquisition
Room I · The Commission
A bespoke case on a Cartier mechanism
The gold case that wraps this lighter was made to order by an Italian atelier, commissioned through a Rome retailer that worked in direct partnership with Cartier. The mechanism beneath is standard Cartier Paris production, serial C69442, the same engineering the house fitted to its regular line. What sets this piece apart is the case.
The French eagle head hallmark on the body guarantees the gold content at 18 karats throughout. This is solid gold, not plated or filled. Cartier's own maker's mark is struck on the mechanism, and the base plate carries the Plargent silver-plating stamp that Cartier used for the mechanism housing on all its gas lighters of this era.
The French eagle head hallmark on the body guarantees the gold content at 18 karats throughout. This is solid gold, not plated or filled. Cartier's own maker's mark is struck on the mechanism, and the base plate carries the Plargent silver-plating stamp that Cartier used for the mechanism housing on all its gas lighters of this era.
Room II · The Weave
Three golds, base to cap
The basket weave is executed in three colours of 18 karat gold: yellow, white and rose. Each band is individually formed and woven into a continuous pattern that covers the full body of the lighter from base to cap, tight, even and consistent on every face.
Most Cartier basket weave lighters of this era were finished in a single gold. Working three alloys together is harder: each responds differently under the tools, and bringing them into one seamless weave demands precision that few ateliers had. Tri-color examples are the least common by a wide margin.
Most Cartier basket weave lighters of this era were finished in a single gold. Working three alloys together is harder: each responds differently under the tools, and bringing them into one seamless weave demands precision that few ateliers had. Tri-color examples are the least common by a wide margin.
Room III · The Collector's Piece
The rarest of three variants
Italian atelier goldwork on Cartier mechanisms was produced in Rome and Florence through the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. Cases ranged from engine-turned single-colour gold, through two-tone patterns, to full tri-color weave. This is a tri-color, the least common of the three.
It is complete. The weave is crisp and unworn, the cap hinge firm, and the lighter fully functional.
It is complete. The weave is crisp and unworn, the cap hinge firm, and the lighter fully functional.
Body
Excellent
Tri-color basket weave crisp and sharply defined across all faces; no dents, no wear-through on any gold tone.
Mechanism
Excellent
Fully functional; sparks reliably, holds gas without leaking, lights reliably.
Cap
Excellent
Hinge firm and decisive, snaps shut cleanly with no wobble.
Base plateone honest fault
Very Good
Cosmetic patina on underside with minor plating loss, not visible in normal use; consistent with age.
Hallmarks
Excellent
French eagle head 18K hallmark and Cartier maker's mark both crisp and legible.
- Brand
- Cartier Paris (mechanism)
- Case
- Bespoke Italian atelier (18K tri-color gold)
- Pattern
- Basket weave (yellow, white, rose gold)
- Serial
- C69442
- Hallmarks
- French eagle head (18K gold), Cartier maker's mark
- Base
- PLARGENT G 30 MICRONS (silver-plated mechanism housing)
- Origin
- France / Italy
- Era
- C.1970s-1980s
- Condition
- Excellent
- Box/Papers
- None
The Estate Collection
Room IV · Acquisition
€6.200
We'd love to discuss this piece with you.
Cartier Paris
€6.200
Enquiry
Cartier Tri-Color Gold Lighter, c.1970s
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